Review VI: Poplar
I had planned to visit Poplar ever since my trip to Trellick Tower. However, due to various reasons—primarily my procrastination—I delayed it for quite some time. I had never been to Poplar before. Compared to the Isle of Dogs, it seems to lack the same level of recognition. Honestly, there hasn’t been much motivation for me to visit, aside from my interest in studying brutalist architecture.
The reason I want to visit is that I learned about several buildings designed by Alison and Peter Smithson, as well as Erno Goldfinger, which were built before Trellick Tower. Unlike Trellick, these buildings in East London might offer insights into a different development path for brutalist architecture compared to those in West London. From my experience living in London for about a year, I’ve noticed that the gentrification process in West London started earlier than in the East. In areas like Notting Hill and Portobello Market, where Trellick Tower is located, you can see a well-established commercial presence. Cafes, posh restaurants, and of course, those charming antique shops are scattered throughout the region. It’s clear that this level of development has taken a long time to reach.
East London, however, is different. Many areas, like Hackney and Peckham, have only recently become popular with parts of the middle-income demographic. While I see signs of gentrification in these places, the process lags behind that of the West. Gentrified units in East London are deeply intertwined with the original local communities.
My first impression of Poplar was fairly unremarkable. It mostly consists of residential communities, much like any random area in East London. There wasn’t anything particularly eye-catching, except for some newly developed apartment buildings I saw on my way to Balfron Tower. Just like its sister building, Trellick Tower, Balfron has the same iconic shape, making it easy to recognize from a distance due to its unique design. Its massive scale and dual-tower structure make it impossible to ignore, much like Trellick. However, I did notice some subtle differences between the two. Balfron appears wider than Trellick, and its windows are larger. Despite being built before Trellick, Balfron looks more modern.
Carradale House, another design by Erno Goldfinger, is located just 50 meters from Balfron Tower. It doesn’t share the same level of fame as Balfron or Trellick Tower, even though they share a similar design, including the signature lift tower. From its exterior, Carradale seems less modernized compared to Balfron, lacking features like the larger windows. It retains more of the traditional characteristics of a typical council house from the past.
The highlight of my visit was Robin Hood Gardens. This iconic brutalist structure, designed by Alison and Peter Smithson, is considered a milestone in brutalist architecture. I had come across a lot of information about it during my online searches for brutalist buildings. Unfortunately, like many other brutalist buildings, it is currently undergoing demolition, abandoned by the modernized city around it. The site is now surrounded by walls, preventing people from seeing it up close. Despite this, I was still grateful to have the chance to visit such a remarkable building before it’s replaced by something else. It stands as a testament to the decline of an era—an era of public housing and brutalist architecture.
